French Christmas traditions are like the French themselves: an extraordinary and very likeable mixture of culinary excellence and generosity.
France is a big country, so there are quite a few different Christmas traditions observed in the Hexagone (this is a reference to the shape of the French country, go look at it on a map). One thing, however, is certain: the French love Christmas, regardless of whether they are religious or not.
In some regions of France (particularly in the East and the North), the Christmas celebrations start on December 6. This is the day dedicated to Saint-Nicolas, the saint who gave away his fortune to the poor and to children. (Remember my story about the Dutch celebration of Sinterklaas.) St. Nicholas’ memory is celebrated by gift giving: children receive toys and little chocolate statuettes on this day. There are also localized traditions, like the Feast of Light (la Fête de la Lumière) in Lyon, on December 8. The citizens of this beautiful old town all place candles in their windows to honor the Virgin Mother, which creates a magical atmosphere.
Most commonly, though, the French stick to the traditional timetable: Christmas Eve, Christmas Day and the day after Christmas. In some regions the celebrations go on until La Fête des Rois on the first Sunday of January. This is the French version of Epiphany Day, or the coming of the Three Wise Men, which is the traditional gift-giving holiday in all Catholic countries. On La Fête des Rois children often go round from door to door on this day to sing songs and collect some coins in the process.
Almost all French families decorate their homes at Christmastime with a Nativity scene or crèche with little clay figures called “santons” or “little saints.” In addition to the usual Holy Family, shepherds, and Magi, the artisans who make the santons also produce figures in the form of local dignitaries and characters. The artistry involved in creating the gaily colored santons is quite astounding, the molds used to make the santons have often been passed from generation to generation since the seventeenth century. Throughout December, the figures are sold at annual Christmas fairs in Marseille and Aix.
The Christmas tree has never been particularly popular in France. Instead the French traditionally use a Yule log. In South France, people burn Yule logs continuously from Christmas Eve to New Year's Day. Traditionally, a part of this log was used to make the wedge for the plough as good luck omen for a plentiful harvest in the coming year.
La crèche de la Chapelle Saint-Aurélien - Limoges
Although the use of the Yule log has faded, the French still make a traditional Yule log-shaped cake called the buche de Noel, which means "Christmas Log." The cake, among other traditional foods, is served at the grand feast of the season, which is called le reveillon. Le reveillon is a very late supper held after midnight mass on Christmas Eve. The menu for the meal varies according to regional culinary tradition. For example, in Alsace, goose is the main course, in Burgundy it is turkey with chestnuts. Parisians feast upon oysters and pate de foie gras. Le Reveillon may also include poultry, ham, salads, cake, fruit and wine.
French love desserts and French bakeries are famous for their excellent desserts. The "Pain Calendeau", for example, is a gorgeously sweet Christmas loaf with dried fruits in it. Pain Calendeau and the buche de Noel are the traditional French Christmas desserts.
Once the Christmas dinner is over and the family has retired to bed, they leave a fire burning and food and drink on the table in case the Virgin Mary calls in. Like in Spain, French children leave their shoes or wooden clogs (“sabots”) by the fireplace for the le petit Jesus or Pere Noel (the French equivalent of Santa Claus) to fill. In the north of France, children are given gifts on December 6, which is St. Nicholas' Day, instead of Christmas Day. The adults give each others presents on New Year's Day.
Generosity is a big part of the French Christmas tradition. The French give food to the poor (the Pain Calendeau can never be eaten without sharing it with somebody who is down on his or her luck); they also give lots of presents to their children and to each other.
A beautiful French Christmas tradition is that kids who write a letter to Le Pere Noel actually get one back: the French postal services make sure that all the notes are answered.
Joyeux Noël!
Next: Christmas in Canada – the Boston Christmas Tree
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